Circular Pla Guillem via Coll des Basses – Cabane des Cums – Coll del vent

A very pleasant circular route on well-marked paths. However, a good sense of direction is still required, as there are different markings to follow.
Warning: the Pla Guillem area is very hazardous in foggy conditions and it is often very cold there. The GPX track is essential: the weather changes very quickly.*
This hike can be classified as difficult. The 7-hour duration indicated by the software is fairly accurate. Not all the paths are easy to walk on.
The scenery is very beautiful. The Cums hut and the Pla Guillem refuge offer places to rest.
This hike should be avoided during heatwaves and in heavy snow.
Please note the restricted access to the car park at La Togne towards Coll de les Basses: see practical information.

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 10.31 mi
  • ◔
    Average duration: 7h 00 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 2,589 ft
  • ↘
    Descent: - 2,589 ft

  • ▲
    Highest point: 7,552 ft
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 5,564 ft

Photos

Description of the walk

Access to the car park is not always possible. * See practical information.
From Prats-de-Mollo, continue towards La Preste. Just at the entrance to the hamlet, turn sharply right towards Les Conques. At a very tight left-hand bend (alt. 1,590 m), head straight on towards Les Forquets.
Outside the summer season, continue past the Les Forquets barrier. At the end of the tarmac track, continue for 200 m. Park near the large wooden posts on the left-hand side. Do not obstruct traffic.

Yellow and red markings ofthe GRP®® Tour du Canigó.

(S/E) Continue climbing along the dirt and stony track until you reach the large grazing area at the multi-way junction at Coll de les Basses (alt. 1790 m).

(1) Go through the gate and let the track branch off to the left. Continue towards the forest, heading north-west. Simply follow this well-marked path which stays along the mountainside, gaining very little altitude. After a stretch through the forest, the path emerges into old pastures. After heading east, you’ll reach the Cabane des Cums in a grazing area. Vast, south-facing landscapes.

(2) Continue along theGRP®®, cross a forest, reach a small open area and turn left, heading north-east to reach a fork a few metres ahead (elevation 1958m).

Red and white markings ofthe GR®® T83

(3) Leave theGRP®®. Climb very steeply to the left, north-west, via the GRT83, along a damaged and rather rough path. Exit the wooded area and reach the edge of the vast Pla Guillem pasture.
This is an area to be approached with caution in fog or bad weather. Indeed: there are no rocks to serve as markings, just fragile little painted wooden posts. A little further up, standing stones and large cairns can serve as guides, always heading north-west.

(4) La Font de la Perdiu (the partridge spring), on the left, was not flowing. Continue the climb to the multi-way junction at Pla Guillem (elevation 2283m). A very vast area, often windy and cold.

Red and white markings forthe GR®® T83, which replaces theGRP®® that descends to Mariailles.

(5) In foggy conditions, head straight left onto theGRP®® to Collada del Vent.
Otherwise, continue straight ahead, north-west along a grassy track, following the red and white markings.
Head for a large pile of rocks with a large cairn at the top. Go round a large orri on the left and you will immediately reach a fork in the path/grass track.

No markings for 200 m, there and back.

(6) Continue to the right and reach the Pla Guillem Refuge (notable for its red roof), which is in perfect condition and was renovated in 2022. Please respect this well-maintained shelter, which is very useful in this particularly cold area.

(7) Turn back to the previous junction.

(6) In the event of fog or bad weather, return to Pla Guillem via theGR®® T83, then turn right onto theGRP®® Tour du Canigó via the Camí Ramader.
- Otherwise, head due south, following the numerous standing stones or cairns (reinforced), and further up, rejoin the Camí Ramader de Campmagre (transhumance path).

Yellow and red markings ofthe GRP®® Tour du Canigó.

(8) Turn right, south-west, onto this very rough track which, further on, turns south and reaches a flat area at Collada del Vent.
A lovely spot for spotting vultures (in summer) and herds of chamois (in winter). Picnic table and campfire area.

Yellow markings for aPR®® with small painted wooden posts.

(9) A spot that lives up to its name: the little pass of the wind.
Continue due south, along the mountainside, following the Camí Ramader de Campmagre. Further on, descend steeply south-east to reach Collada de les Voltes (Little Pass of the Bend).

(10) Descend very steeply, turning right towards the south-west, along a rough track. Further down, the markings are very sparse or absent; look out for the cairns and head straight south. You will reach springs and streams.

(11) Turn left, heading south-east, along the hillside for 300 m, to locate the painted wooden posts.

(12) At an altitude of around 2020 m, the IGN track is incorrect. Continue straight on for 400 m along the well-marked path on the ground, which then disappears. Descend to the left, following the markings and cairns. You will then reach a good path and arrive at the Coll de Bise. Hand-made directional signs.

(13) Follow the sign for Les Conques. Descend due south through the pasture. You’ll reach an area recently fitted with wide wooden anti-erosion steps, and join the track.

(14) Continue the descent opposite, keeping an eye out for the small painted wooden posts. Pass a large drinking trough. Continue down, go round the large rocks on the right, then turn left to cross a wooden grating over the Còrrec de la Bagassa and reach the car park (D:A).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : mi 0 - alt. 5,564 ft - Parking at the end of the tarmac track. GRP
  2. 1 : mi 0.85 - alt. 5,856 ft - GRP - Col ou Coll de les Basses (1796m)
  3. 2 : mi 3.45 - alt. 6,093 ft - Cabane des Cums
  4. 3 : mi 4.53 - alt. 6,434 ft - GR T83 junction
  5. 4 : mi 5.64 - alt. 7,411 ft - Font de la Perdiu
  6. 5 : mi 6.07 - alt. 7,497 ft - Crossroads with standing stones.
  7. 6 : mi 6.45 - alt. 7,431 ft - Junction. Return to the refuge
  8. 7 : mi 6.53 - alt. 7,425 ft - Pla Guillem refuge
  9. 8 : mi 7.2 - alt. 7,500 ft - Cami Ramader. GRP
  10. 9 : mi 7.65 - alt. 7,313 ft - PR - Col du coup de vent ou Collada del Vent (2229m)
  11. 10 : mi 8.15 - alt. 7,057 ft - Collada de les Voltes
  12. 11 : mi 8.95 - alt. 6,742 ft - Source
  13. 12 : mi 9.13 - alt. 6,637 ft - PR does not correspond to the IGN
  14. 13 : mi 9.73 - alt. 6,302 ft - Col ou Coll de Bise (1923m)
  15. 14 : mi 9.87 - alt. 6,109 ft - Crossing the track
  16. S/E : mi 10.31 - alt. 5,564 ft - Parking at the end of the tarmac track

Notes

Access to the car park is not always possible. The barrier at the Cabane Pastorale des Forquets is closed during the summer months. A hikers’ car park is available. Starting from this point adds 3 km round trip and 80 m of ascent and descent.

  • Situation last checked in early November 2023. Set off at 8.30 am: cold (6°C), clear blue skies and sunshine, then shortly before midday, clouds and wind rolled in. Result: frozen ground at Pla Guillem; the refuge was a great help. It was cosy inside; hikers had slept there, and the stove was still warm.

Water can be collected using a filter or disinfectant tablets.
(2) Plenty of water just past the hut. (5) Font de la Perdiu, almost dry below Pla Guillem. (11) Several springs with low flow on the day of the hike. Water trough after the (14).

(14) In summer, a Patou dog may be present, guarding a large flock of sheep. Go round to the left or head down the track. The shepherd present assured us that the dog was not aggressive provided you stayed in a group and went well round him!

This is a mountainous area: warm clothing and rain gear, water, snacks, GPX track, description, map, GPS or Visorando app, camera, good walking boots, a walking stick.

Part of the hike is in open terrain; you’ll need to set off early in warm weather, as conditions can change very quickly.
This hike can be done in the opposite direction to make for a longer return journey after descending from Pla Guillem.

Worth a visit

Please respect the facilities provided along the route.
- La Cabane des Cums (2) is maintained by volunteers.
- The Pla Guillem refuge (CAF) (7) was fully refurbished in 2022. Many thanks to them.
Please note: The Refuge des Cortalets is undergoing renovation from late June 2026 until the end of summer 2028. There should be a 20-berth tented accommodation available from late June 2026 throughout the summer season! This affects the link below for the Tour du Canigó.
The Tour du Canigó

(1) Coll de les Basses: an orientation table on the right as you head due east (wooden sign indicating the viewpoint).

Always be cautious and plan ahead when you're outdoors. Visorando and the author of this route cannot be held responsible for any accidents occurring on this route.

The GR® and PR® markings are the intellectual property of the Fédération Française de Randonnée Pédestre.

Reviews and comments

5 / 5
Based on 1 review

Reliability of the description
Not used
Ease of following the route
5 / 5
Route interest
5 / 5
lemarcheur65
lemarcheur65 ★

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 03, 2024
Reliability of the description : Not used / Not applicable
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Group hike on 3 October 2024.
Very strong winds. Very low temperatures on the Pla Guillem.
Cums hut very clean.
The Pla Guillem refuge was very clean, but there was a large full bin bag outside (waiting for the refuse collection lorry?).
A challenging day due to the very strong winds (40 to 90 km/h) forecast.
Otherwise, sunshine and, as always, beautiful scenery.
Met one person (a solo hiker) at the refuge.

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